I always look forward to the annual tasting of this leading Benelux importer of Italian wines. The event is well organised, he displays an impressive portfolio of Gambero Rosso’s 3 bicchieri winning producers and always shows 10 times as much wine as I am capable of tasting. My choice of the afternoon on the last day was, however, not good as most the invited producers were packing their bags to head off the airport to catch the late afternoon flights back to Italy.
I cannot conceal some disappointment about most of the reds. The quality standard was high but time after time, there seemed to be the same palette of rich sweet fruit, high density of body and more or less prominent wood, often caramel, toffee or marzipan notes. It was almost as if the Amarone style were becoming a standard to which most producers were aspiring. By contrast, regional and varietal characters seemed understated. In particular, I missed the traditionally bright food friendly acidity and tension in the Tuscans and the distinguished austerity of Barolo, both of which were in most cases overwhelmed by the rich sweet fruit. Overall, I enjoyed the whites better, many of which showed real character and class.
A good tasting always has its revelations and this year it was Etna wines from Terre Nere. These were a shining exception to my complaint about sameness in the reds and the white was fine too.
Leopildo Pieropan, Soave
Maybe it was a function of my tasting these straight after the succession of rich, dense reds, but they seemed to show even more distinction than before. (Garganega is the main white grape variety in Soave so I only note the minority varieties.)
Soave Classico 2007 (€10,50), with 10% Trebbiano di Soave, was deliciously fresh and mineral with aromas of flowers, mint and white meat; 15.5/20++++.
Soave Classico Calvarino 2006 (€16) was more ample and more serious with fine white fruit and minerals; 16/20++.
Soave Classico La Rocca 2006 (€23) showed another step-up in complexity and depth; 16.5/20+++.
IGT Rosso Veronese Ruberpan 2004 (€20), made from Corvina, Corvinone, Rondinella and Croatina Veronese, showed an elegant medium weight palate of attractive red fruit with good grip; some polished wood was present only on the nose; 15.5/20.
Livio Felluga, Cormons, Friuli
I was less impressed by this range of this leading Friulian grower than at a tasting a year or so ago; the whites suffered following Pieropan.
I found a coarse touch in IGT Shàrjs 2007 (€14), Chardonnay and Ribolla Gialla, which detracted from minerals and ample rich fruit; 14.5/20.
COF Sauvignon 2007(€17) was rounder, more mouth-filling and less crisp than most Kiwi or Sancerre but did not entirely escape cat’s pee; 14.5/20.
COF Pinot Grigio (€17) was crisply mouth-filling with white meat touches; 15/20.
COF Friulano (€18) was equally crisp but showed more character and tang with herbal touches and nice minerality and length; 15.5/20++.
COF Illivio 2006 (€22) , made from pinot bianco, chardonnay and picolit, was fuller, longer and more complex than any of the previous but at this stage showed boiled sweet (“bonbon”) and wood notes which detract; 15/20 with ? potential.
IGT Vertigo 2006 (€14), made from Merlot and Cabernet-Sauvignon, showed nice spicy red fruit and good structure marred by a somewhat bitter finish; 15/20.
COF Refosco dal Peduncolo Rosso 2005 (€23) was refreshingly original with good depth of bright tangy fruit showing currant hints, some real tension and good length; 16/20+.
COF Sosso Riserva Rosazzo 2004 (€40), made from Refosco, Merlot and Pignolo, showed rich dark fruit with touches of mint fine tannic structure but was marred at present by raw plank touches on the nose; 15/20 + probably with ++ potential.
Feudi di San Gregorio, Sorbo Serpico Avellino, Campania
I like the whites here better than the more pretentious and highly priced reds.
Fiano d’Avellino 2007 (€14) was delightfully fragrantly citrus, fresh and mineral; 16/20.
Greco di Tufo 2007 (€14) was softer and more ampler but also coarser; 15/20.
Greco di Tufo Cutizzi 2007 (€17) showed tropical fruit, liqueur touches, while keeping minerality, together with subtlety and finesse; 16/20++.
Rubrato 2006, 100% Aglianico (€12), showed fleshy dark fruit marred at present by strong toffee notes; 13.5/20.
Taurasi 2004 (€27), 100% Aglianico, was much better with a resinous touch to the aromas, deep tangy dark fruit with good structure; 15/20.
Taurasi Piano di Montevergine 2001 (€40), 100% Aglianico, showed greater fragrance in aroma with attractive cigar box touches with smooth deep and sweet fruit, liqueur and English fruit cake touches; 15.5/20+++.
What has happened Serpico (€50), 100% Aglianico, which used to be forbiddingly dense but impressive in its youth? This 2005 was up-front with soft rich fruit, burgeoning fruit cake flavour and lots of dry caramel; 13/20.
Cimarelli – Fonte della Luna, Staffolo, Marche
Verdicchio Castelli di Jesi 2007 (€7) was fruity and generous but quite ordinary; 13.5/20.
Verdicchio Castelli di Jesi “Fra Moriale” 2007 (€12) was much better showing white fruit, white meat and spice, generosity and a nice tang; 15/20 +.
Rosso Piceno 2006 (€8), made from Montepulciano 60% and Sangiovese 40%, was only medium in weight but was delicious with fragrant soft fruit; 15.5/20++.
Le Terazze, Numana, Marche
Rosso Conero 2006 (€12), 100% Montepulciano, was less good than the 2004 which I bought at the estate; soft and easy drinking with a touch of brett which added pleasant complexity at this stage; 14.5/20.
Chaos IGT 2004 (€30), made from Montepulciano 50%, Merlot 25% and Syrah 25%, will probably please the pointy people but its “bonbon” aromas, fruit cake and liqueur are not my thing without a lot more besides; 15/20.
Cantine del Notaio, Rionere in Vulture, Basilicata
I was less impressed that last year because the wines shown seemed more suavely “international” in style compared with a distinguished and characterful rusticity which I noted then; palate inconsistency, vintage difference, deliberate change in style? I don’t know the answer.
L’Atto 2006 (€12), 100% Aglianico, showed supple fruit with some liqueur and a nice tang; 15/20.
Aglianico del Vulture Il Repertorio 2006 €18) was deep and round with ripe tannins and meat and liquorice touches; 15.5/20.
Aglianico del Vulture La Firma 2004 (€31) showed violet and mineral notes on the nose and considerable depth and complexity with chocolate notes on the palate; 16/20.
Tenuta delle Terre Nere, Randazzo, Sicilia
These wines are a revelation to me. The estate is located on volcanic soil high up on the North slopes of Mount Etna. The special soil and altitude explain some of the exceptional elegance and finesse. Here is more information from a wine merchant’s site - http://www.skurnikwines.com/prospects.c ... ect_id=396 .
Etna Bianco 2007 (€11), made from 50% Carricante, 25% Catarratto, 15% Grecanico and 10% Insolia, is a sort of generous Chardonnay substitute without butter and toast and with a character all its own; mouth-filling with subtle exotic fruit and lively mineral touches; 16/20.
Etna Rosso 2007 (€11), 100% Nerello Mascalese, has a fragrant nose with mineral, spice and orange touches and surprisingly light body which shows great elegance and fragrance balance by grip; not unlike Burgundy in style, if not in flavour; 16/20.
Etna Rosso Guardiola 2006 (€28) adds depth and roundness; 16.5/20.
I must buy some bottles of these to see whether my enthusiasm is confirmed at table.
Morgante, Grotte, Sicilia
These are more conventionally Sicilian.
Nero d’ Avola 2006 (€11) has soft, almost soggy, fruit with an over-ripe feel; 13.5/20.
Don Antonio 2005 (€25), 100% Nero d’Avola, is a different proposition showing fragrance with notes of blackberry and tar on a full, deep, powerful and structure body; 16/20.
Allegrini, Fumana di Valpolicella
These are not the sorts of wine which I wish to drink very often but I cannot deny that they are very accomplished. (Corvina dominates these; I indicate other grapes in the blend).
Palazzo della Torre 2005 (€16), with 25% Rondinella and 5% Sangiovese, is softly fruity with some liqueur and a bitter tang; 15/20.
La Grolla 2005 (€17), with 15% Rondinella, 10% Syrah and 5% Sangiovese, is more fragrant with touches of marmalade and toffee; 15/20.
Amarone classico della Valpolicella 2004 (€60), with 20% Rondinella and 5% Oseleta, is much deeper and longer with spice, raisin and raspberry touches; 16/20+.
La Poja 2004 (€65), 100% Corvina, is even deeper, much more structured and severe, complex and long; 16.5/20++.
Castello di Ama – Gaiole in Chianti, Toscana
Chianti Classico 2005 (€28), with 80% Sangiovese, 8% Canaiolo, 12% Merlot and Malvasia Nera, was disappointingly soft and lacking in tang and acidity; 14/20.
Fattoria Le Pupille – Magliano in Toscana
Morellino di Scansano 2006 (€10), with 85% Sangiovese, 10% Alicante and 5% Malvasia Nera, was better than the Castello di Ama, easy drinking with supple round fruit and a little tang; 14.5/20.
Morellino di Scansano Poggio Valente 2004 (€27), with 95% Sangiovese and 5% Alicante, was quite a step up with nice acidity and tang lending balance to some fruit cake flavours; 15.5/20+++.
Saffredi 2004 (€60), with 50% Cabernet Sauvignon, 35% Merlot and 15% Alicante, shows red fruit, meat and leather aromas and considerable depth, complexity, structure and length; 16.5/20+.
Avignonesi, Montepulciano, Toscana
This producer seems to be an adept of the rich, ripe style; accomplished wines but not what I want from Tuscany. (The first three wines are Prugnolo Gentile= Sangiovese dominated; only the other varieties are shown.)
Rosso di Montepulciano 2007 (€12), with 10% Canaiolo and 5% Mammolo, showed soft rich red fruit with tobacco hints; 15/20
I preferred the previous to Vino Nobile di Montepulciano 2005 (€19), with the same grape varieties, which was more complex but weaker and showing a lot of toffee; 14.5/20.
Vino Nobile di Montepulciano Grandi Annate 2004 (€50), with 15% Cabernet-Sauvignon, was much deeper, richer and more complex with fragrance, spice and some candied notes balanced by tang; 16/20+.
I did not like Desiderio 2005 (€42), 80% Merlot and 25% Cabernet-Sauvignon, which was perfumed and showed a lot of toffee; 13.5/20.
Fanti, Montalcino, Toscana
There was a lot of toffee on Rosso Sant’Antimo 2006 (€10); 13/20.
Rosso di Montalcino 2006 (€12) was much better with attractive fruit and liqueur touches but curiously small on the palate; 15/20.
Brunello di Montalcino 2003 (€40) was also curiously small and quite similar to the Rosso in a rather more complex, structured and mature vein; 15/20+.
Elio Altare, La Morra, Piemonte
Dolcetto d’Alba 2006 (€14) was unusually sweet and rich for this variety and may have lost freshness but gained depth since last year; 15.5/20.
Barbera d’Alba 2006 (€17) added meat, spice and piquancy to the previous much as last year; 16/20.
Barolo La Morra 2004 (€60) was superior to last year’s 2003 showing lovely violet and tar aromas and rich, complex, mineral and long palate; 17/20.
Langhe Vigna Larigi 2005 (€70), 100% Barbera, is deep, complex and fragrant but lacking the Nebbiolo class and marred for me by faint toffee touches which should integrate with time; 15.5/20++ with potential.
Paolo Scavino, Castiglione Faletto, Piemonte
Barbera d’Alba 2007 (€17) was somewhat lighter than Altare’s but complex and delicious; 15.5/20++.
Barolo 2003 (discounted to €30) showed perfumed, even “bonbon”, aromas and a smooth round body; much more simplistic than the Altare; 15/20.
Barolo Carobric 2004 (€ 63) was somewhat closed aromatically but showed much more complexity, depth, minerality, grip and structure than the previous; 16/20+.
Barolo Bric del Fiasc 2003 (€64) was a return to the smooth perfumed mode with more depth than the basic Barolo; 15.5/20.
Parusso, Monforte d’Alba, Piemonte
Nebbiolo Langhe 2007 (€16) was rich and supple with grip showing some orange peel notes; 15.5/20++.
Barolo 2004 (€32) was structured and rich with violet notes; 16/20.
Barolo Bussia 2004 (€43) was a step up with added notes of cherry and tar and more depth and freshness; 16/20++.
Aldo Conterno, Montforte d’Alba
Langhe Rosso 2005 (€19), 100% Nebbiolo, showed aromas of raspberry and violet together with brightness and depth; 16/20.
Barbera d’Alba 2005 (€25) disappointed with dry caramel notes; 14/20.
Barolo 2004 (€56) was in a discreet phase but showed minerals, classical shape, elegance and structure with great complexity; in spite of the generation change at the estate this remains the only Barolo in this line-up showing the classy austerity which I associate with the appellation; 16.5/20.