I have already posted in Wine Focus about the Bordeaux blends from this tasting on Sunday.
Here are highlights from the rest –
Domaine des Roches Neuves (Thierry Germain), Saumur-Champigny
Saumur-Champigny 2006 (€8), the basic cuvée 100% Cabernet franc, was more subdued than many competitors showing nice fruit and charcoal notes; 14.5/20. Saumur “L’Insolite” 2006 (€15), 100% Chenin blanc, promises to be outstanding; it is bone dry, elegant and long with delicious minerality mingled with white fruit especially apple and pear; 16.5/20 now with ++ potential when fully opened up. L’Insolite has changed in style in the last few years (for the better, IMHO); earlier vintages were much more exotic in fruit with noticeable smell and taste of wood ageing.
Domaine Jean-Michel Alquier, Faugères
This estate, planted with Syrah and Grenache 30% each, Carignan 25% and Mourvèdre 15%, is one of my favourites from Languedoc producing some of the most elegant wines in the region, a bit like a more generous Northern Rhône. The two tasted here did not show as well as those from my cellar, perhaps needing more time. Faugères Les Premières 2006 (€14) showed supply fruit and some structure disfigured for me by toffee notes; a pity because Alquier is usually very deft in his use of wood; 14/20. Faugères La Maison Jaune 2006 (€19), Syrah dominated, shows subdued aromas with some cherry and quite deep body with dark fruit enhanced by pepper and anis notes; 15.5/20 at most now but on past form should become 16/20+. The top red cuvée, Les Bastides, and the excellent white were not shown.
Viña Torreon de Paredes, Rengo Valley, Chile
I thought that there was some new wood on Sauvignon 2007 (€6) because of light caramel notes together with gooseberry in its aromas but Alvaro Paredes assured me that it saw no wood at all; the palate was fresh, fruity, tangy and mouth-filling and better than Monday’s Livio Felluga from Friuli costing more than the double; 15.5/20. Chardonnay 2007 (€7) showed generous exotic fruit, some burnish, attractive minerals and good mouth-feel but no parasite flavours from its wood ageing (40% in barrique of 1/5 were new); impeccable QPR 15.5/20++.
Domaine de Beaurenard, Famille Coulon, Châteauneuf du Pape
This estate is considered one of the modernists and is said to use quite a lot of new oak. As in previous years, there was too much of a crush round this table for me to discuss the “élevage” philosophy with M. Coulon. I have always found this a consistently good range with a smooth quality progression up the hierarchy and have bought some in past years with satisfaction.
Côtes du Rhône 2006 (€8) was richly quaffable with sweet plum, tar and pepper; 15.5/20. CDVR Rasteau 2006 (€12) added some violet, kirsch and structure to the same palette; 15.5/20++. CDVR Rasteau “Les Argiles Bleues” 2006 (€19) was a touch more fragrant and darker and deeper on the palate; medium term ageing potential here; 15.5/20+++. Châteauneuf du Pape 2005 (€23) was more subdued but I felt greater richness and complexity with “garrigue” notes; potentially 16/20+. Châteauneuf du Pape “Boisrenard” 2005 (€40) was in a different league with real depth, complexity and structure and more perfumed aromatics with some prune and liqueur notes; potentially 17/20+.
Château Jolys, Marion Latrille, Gan, Jurançon
Since I discovered the wines of Charles Hours and, to a less extent, of Domaine Cauhapé, I have become a firm fan of Jurançon’s racy and mineral wines derived from the Petit and Gros Manseng and Courbu grape varieties in the western Pyrenees foothills. Appreciation of the Jolys range was helped by the owner’s attractive presence, but I don’t think that those on show here, good though they were, have quite the distinction of Hours. There are two other even sweeter cuvées, Vendanges Tardives and Epiphanie, the latter of which is often harvested in the New Year and is something very special as I remember from a taste offered by Marion Latrille’s father a few years ago. Sweetness is obtained by the “passerillage” technique, whereby the grapes are dried usually on mats to concentrate the sugars; I was once gently rebuked by father Latrille for talking about “botrytis”.
Jurançon sec 2006 (€8) was aromatically expressive showing good fruit with pineapple touches but also a slight coarseness which is absent from Hours’ Cuvée Marie; 15/20. Jurançon Moelleux Vieilles Vignes 2006 (€10) was nicely burnished but lacking in brightness; 14/20. Jurançon Moelleux “Cuvée Jean” 2004 (€13) was altogether richer, more complex and longer showing pineapple, liqueur and above all mineral brightness; 16/20.