WTN: Thoughts on a BIG Champagne Tasting (long)

[David M. Bueker]

Laura and I went to the Terry Theise portfolio Champagne tasting yesterday in New York City. We tasted about 80 Champagnes from 15 different producers in Terry's portfolio, all small growers or récoltant-manipulants who grow their own grapes & make their own wine (as opposed to the big houses that buy grapes, wine, etc. to supplement their own holdings). The vast majority of these small growers' wines are very representative of specific areas of Champagne (e.g. Cote des Blancs, Montagne de Reims, etc) and even specific villages (e.g. Ambonnay, Mesnil sur Oger).

My notes were short and sweet, so what I will post are more impressions and highlights than full tasting notes, but I have a few starting observations:

1. We liked nearly every wine in the tasting. There were a few that were not to our personal stylistic preferences (mostly experiments with newer oak), but not a single wine that we would have considered anything less than very good quality.

2. The place was packed! Hooray for small growers & people wanting Champagne even in bad economic times.

3. There were a few additional non-Champagne sparkers, and I must highly recommend Schloss Gobelsburg and Brundlmayer's Sekt bottlings as being right up there with Champagne even if the styles are different.

4. Thank God the Euro is coming down. Prices for wines purchased under the old exchange rate are scary.

5. Despite point #4 the vast majority of these wines are well worth the price.

6. All the "Special CLub" bottlings look exactly the same no matter which producer. I know that is part of the point, but it's also very confusing.

Specific wine thoughts (in the order the tables were laid out in the room):

Pierre Gimmonet et Fils
100% Chardonnay from the Cote des Blancs for all the wines which were all very, very nice. Highlights were the 2002 "Fleuron" Blanc de Blancs Brut 2002 is a stunning wines that is rich and round but still has incredible underlying cut. Tons of fruit and bread aromas. Delicious. The Vintage Collection Blanc de Blancs Brut 1999 was also stunning from magnum and showed precision and grace.

Jean Milan
Another all Chardonnay producer from the Cote des Blancs. I preferred Gimmonet, but the Milan wines are also really fine with the Cuvee de Reserve Blanc de Blancs NV a standout NV for its richness and depth (some 2003 fruit in here pumped up the volume), the 2002 "Symphorine" Blanc de blancs Brut one of my top 5 of the tasting for its lemony, spicy brilliance and the 2002 Selection Terres de Noel Blanc de Blancs Brut showing amazing length and precise balance.

Pierre Peters
Cote des Blancs & still 100% Chardonnay. I thought the Cuvee Reserve was good but too soft for my taste. A 2003 Blanc de Blancs Brut showed surprising lift and balance. There are very few 2003 wines I like but this is one of them. The 2000 Cuvee Speciale Blanc de Blancs Brut from magnum was a special wine with great fruit, fullness and a very long finish. I loved it.

Varnier-Fanniere
Back to the Cote des Blancs for still more 100% Chardonnay wines. The Grand Cru Blanc de Blancs Brut NV was deliciously rich and just way too drinkable. I might prefer slightly less dosage, but it worked really well. I would lay some of this down. The 2003 Grand Vintage Blanc de Blancs Brut was another 2003 surprise with berry flavors from Chardonnay (!) and crisp lemon accents. Very well done, but a bit pricey.

Marc Hebrart
We've moved to the Vallee de la Marne and now blending of grape varieties. I thought all three wines here were excellent. The Cuvee de Reserve Brut NV with its 80% Pinot Noir showed good balance & very solid red fruit tones. It was just outright tasty. The Blanc de Blancs Brut NV was also very well made & showed more underlying solidity than the Cote des Blancs wines, Maybe not ideal for a Blanc de Blancs wine, but still very good. The Selection Brut NV was one of my top five of the day for its delicious red fruit and underlying minerals. This is a strong possibility to be my next house bubbly. Excellent showing for Hebrart's wines.

Rene Geoffroy
I have always like the wines of this producer from the Vallee de la Marne, and enjoyed them yet again on Tuesday. I tasted 6 wines and all were very fine, with 4 as standouts for the day. The Empriente Brut NV was structured and red fruit dominated (87% of the wine was from the red grapes). The Cuvee Volupte Brut NV straddled the line between brightness and richness with great precision. Lovely wine from 100% Chardonnay vinified in neutral oak. The Millesime 2000 Brut was anotehr of my top 5 for the day with its spicy, round character. It's not cheap, but I would pay the higher price for this wine no question as it competes with the absolute best of Champagne in my opinion. The 1995 Cuvee de Rene Geoffroy is more developed and complex with truly great depth of flavor.

Gaston-Chicquet
This Vallee de la Marne property is a favorite producer of mine. Their Tradition Brut NV is the current house Champagne at Schloss Bueker, and it's still delicious, earthy, surprisingly deep CHampagne with nearly 50% Pinot Meunier. Yes Meunier can make fine Champagne! The Rose Brut NV was the single most refreshing Rose I tasted, making up in drinkability what it perhaps lacked in depth. I could drink it all day long. The Blanc de Blancs d'Ay Brut NV was creamy and spicy, really showing a unique signature for the day. I really liked it.

Henri Goutorbe
Also from teh Vallee de la Marne, this was a new producer for me. I tasted three wines and liked them all. The Cuvee Prestige Brut NV showed its Pinot Noir dominance through its richness, with a lively finish. The Rose Brut NV was all about strawberries and structure. I liked it very much. Finally the 2000 Special Club Brut was spicy and structured and a delicious drink. I would highly recommend people to try the wines of this producer.

A. Margaine
Moving to the Montagne de Reims, this is a producer I had little familiarity with until yesterday. The Cuvee Traditionelle Brut NV was very steely and bright with a surprisingly accessible and fruity finish. The Special Club Blanc de Blancs Brut 2000 added a toast element over the steeliness of the NV. I loved the combination! The Demi-Sec NV showed great delicacy and could be an amazing aperitif or dinner companion when sweetness enters the food (or even for foie gras).

Henri Billiot
Located in the Montagne de Reims with Ambonnay fruit and low dosage, Billiot was the find of the tasting for me, as I had previously only had one of their wines. The Reserve Brut NV was consensus wine of the day for Laura and me. I love the aroma and taste of apples in Champagne, and this had bushels of fresh apples. My notes read "delcious, delicious, delicious +++". I think that's my very first triple-delicious. I even landed it clean. The rose Brut NV was darker in fruit tones than any other Rose during the tasting. I liked the depth and seriousness of the wine. The Millesime Brut 2000 showed a developed baked apple element that I liked very much, but I would drink up. No harm in that though. I thought the Cuvee Julie, done half in new barrique was a touch marked by its wood.

Pehu Simonet
I had previously tried one wine from this Montagne de Reims producer. I very much enjoyed their Blanc de Blancs Brut NV despite its day-glo green label. The Champagne Rose NV made with the addition of still Pinot Noir was a top five wine for me, more a Pinot Noir with bubbles than a Champagne which is a very good thing for me. The Cuvee Junior Brut 2002 was also very well made, bright & fruity and in need of some cellar time (though a bit pricey for my blood).

Jean Lallement et Fils
Again the Montagne de Reims and Pinot Noir dominated. I enjoyed the red-fruit focused Brut NV but really liked the richness and freshness of the Rose Brut NV which was just a hair behind the Pehu-Simonet.

Aubry
An interesting house for me. Located again in the Montagne de Reims, Aubry is carrying the torch of some older Champagne grapes, Arbanne, Petit Meslier and Fromenteau (Pinot Gris). My favorite of their classic Champagne releases was the Aubry de Humbery Brut 2002 for its steely (low dosage) character and penetrating depth. I thought the La Nombre d'Or Campanae Veteres Vites Brut 2002 with its use of all six permitted varieties was the most "interesting" wines of the day, and I mean that as a compliment. It was unique in its exotic spice elements, and I found the flavors long, complex and inviting. I want to try this wine again. The Rose Brut NV, made form the "classic" varieties was also very good with the most floral aromas of any Rose I tasted.

Chartogne-Taillet
Another favorite producer of mine, this Montagne de Reims family crafts a lovely range, from the surprisingly delicate Cuvee Sainte Anne Brut NV to perfectly balanced and poised Cuvee Fiacre Brut 2002. Nearly every wine I tasted was given a check or two in my tasting book (my personal note of impressive wines), with the Blanc de Blancs Brut NV showing unusual, peachy fruit and the Millesime Brut 2000 stunning me with its pure red fruit and elegance allied to great richness to make my personal top 5 (which turned out to have 7 wines).

Vilmart et Cie
Probably the most celebrated producer in Terry's portfolio of Champagne, Vilmart is another producer from the Montagne de Reims, and probably also the most cutting edge. I unfortunately found two of their wines too reductive to taste properly. I also found some of the wines overly oaky for my taste. I liked the Coeur de Cuvee Brut 2000 very much, but Vilmart pushes the price envelope too much for my wallet. The Grand Cellier d'Or has been a personal favorite, and its long finish carried the wine for me, but again the Vilmart price point is pushing it for me. I find Vilmart to be a very interesting house, but I don't see the significant quality leap from other producers in Terry's book.

So there you have it. I had seven personal favorites in my top 5 ( ), and wish I could do it all over again tomorrow.

Thanks for that, David. Please keep going. These guys are only about two and a half hours drive from here.

Great to read about so many Champagnes. I've never quite understood Gimmonet - which I find strange as I tend to love Bl de Bl especially with the lower dosages that Gimmonet uses. But despite that, what I have tried have seemed heavy and over-fruity (I even described them as over-dosaged when once served a couple of them blind, though that was obviously horribly wrong!). But apart from that slight sensation of heaviness/sweetness I liked what was in the wines, so I am thinking that we might have seen some 2003 based NVs here? I don't know, but I'm keeping an open mind about them for now as I seem to sense potential to be something very much to my taste.

Pierre Peters Extra Brut NV is one of my all time favourite Champagnes. I've been drinking it my whole adult life and every batch of it seems to be crisp and light yet intense and so wonderfully pure and mineral. The normal Brut Cuvée Réserve is nice, too, but IMO the Extra Brut is a huge step up.

Goutorbe is nice from the few I've tried, but we have seen so few here, that I don't really have any idea on what the style is, but I'm very happy try any that come my way.

Geoffroy was wonderful on that one day that I have seen any! I tried a big part of their range (5 wines IIRC) and most had a base of 2003 wine, but amazingly were still wonderfully crisp. It certainly seems like a producer that I must try more of. Do I remember right that they don't go through any malo?

-O

[David M. Bueker]

Otto - 2003 does lend a distinct heaviness to the wines. Thankfully most NVs are into 2004 and 2005 bases now!

Gimmonet is a puzzle for me as well. The wines are richer and less steely than I would expect for Blanc de Blancs, but I do enjoy them. Of course my heart is with Pinot Noirand even Pinot Meunier, so for me to single out any Blanc de Blancs is high praise indeed.

What a fine day that was, eh ? Pierre Peters anything is virtually Dawn's house wine.

[David M. Bueker]

All finished with the writing!

Pierre Peters
Moving to the Montagne de Reims but still 100% Chardonnay.

Pierre Peters has an address in Le Mesnil. That does not prevent him from owning plots in the Montagne de Reims but I would hve thought that the majority were around Le Mesnil. Incidentally I feel a bit put off Pierre Peters since I was told at his cellar door "we do not need new customers"!

By contrast, we had a warm welcome at Pierre Gimonnet and I particularly remember a superb magnum of 1990.

[David M. Bueker]

The Pierre Peters location is a typo. I will fix it.

The Peters family member at the event was very welcoming (the most friendly person of a friendly lot actually) & specifically handed me his card & asked Laura and me to come visit them. I am surprised by the reaction you got.

Thank God the Euro is coming down. Prices for wines purchased under the old exchange rate are scary.

I have also been following this exchange rate with pleasure. But it has been pretty recent and who knows what will happen in the future. Was there any talk from anyone about future wine prices coming down/flattening as a result?

(I know, I could just join one of the many price threads on That Other Board, but wondering if you had any gossip bits from specific producers/importers, etc)

[David M. Bueker]

No idea on pricing, just prayers.

David,Hi...

I tasted several of these wines not that long ago. My own tasting notes follow

Best
Rogov



Larmandier-Bernier, Extra Brut Blanc de Blancs Champagne, Vieilles Vignes de Cramant, n.v.: As sharp and crisp as you could want, with not a trace of sweetness here but with generous minerality and traditional Chardonnay pear, melon and citrus fruits on a lightly toasty background. Remarkably long and well balanced but primarily for those who like their wines almost puckeringly dry. Drink now-2010. NIS 370. Score 92.(Tasted 10 Mar 2008)

Larmandier-Bernier, Brut Champagne, Blanc de Blancs, n.v: Opens with a light doughy and yeasty sensation, that complementing citrus and notes of tropical fruits, all on a background of minerals and black tea. Intense and long, with a generous mousse and sharp, well-focused bubbles that go on and on. Drink now or in the next year or two. NIS 260. Score 90. (Tasted 10 Mar 2008)

Pierre Gimonnet et Fils, Brut, Blanc de Blanc, 1er Cru, n.v. Light golden straw in color, with a long mousse and sharp, well focused bubbles, a smooth and creamy wine, showing hints of lightly toasted white bread on a rich background of citrus. As the wine lingers on the palate look as well for a hint of roasted almonds. NIS 229. Drink now-2010. Score 91. (Tasted 10 Mar 2008)

Jean Milan Brut, Cuvee Reserve, Blanc de Blancs, n.v.: Opens with hints of spicy wood and yeast, those yielding comfortably in the glass to flinty minerals and citrus fruits, all coming together in a muscular but elegant manner. Crisply dry, with bubbles that go on seemingly forever. Drink now-2010. NIS 280. Score 91. (Tasted 10 Mar 2008)

Pierre Gimonet et Fils, Extra Brut Champagne, Blanc de Blancs, Oenophile, 2000: Opening with a tantalizing hint of sea salt, opens slowly in the glass to reveal citrus, dusty wood, freshly threshed wheat. A long mousse, sharp, concentrated bubbles and a long long finish so try that you might think this Champagne had the tannins usually associated with red wines. Drink now-2018. NIS 310. Score 93. (Tasted 10 Mar 2008)

A. Margaine, Brut, Champagne n.v.: Light golden in color, medium-bodied, with a long mousse and concentrated bubbles that go on and on. On the nose and palate citrus rind and apple nuts together with hints of yeasty brioche and ginger. Floats on the palate and lingers nicely. NIS 189. Score 90.

Gaston Chiquet, Brut Champagne, Tradition, n.v.: Delicate and elegant, with a fine mousse and intense bubbles that last nicely. Opens with a floral nose, goes on to honey and toasty brioche notes and then picks up a hint of red berries all of which linger nicely on the palate. NIS 199. Score 90.

Gaston Chiquet, Brut Champagne, Blanc de Blanc d'Ay, n.v. Lots of toast and yeasty aromas and flavors here but those in fine balance with citrus fruits and roasted nuts and, on the long finish a hint of ginger, vanilla and lemon peel. A good mousse and intense bubbles here that linger nicely. NIS 229. Score 90.

Gaston Chiquet, Brut Champagne, Special Club, 1998: Medium- to full-bodied, opening with a burst of cinnamon-spiced apple pie and then going on to show notes of citrus, vanilla and mocha, all lingering nicely. Crisply dry with a long mousse and concentrated miniscule bubbles that go on and on without end. Drink now-2011. NIS 309. Score 92.
Jean Milan, Brut Blanc de Blanc Champagne, Special Club, n.v.: Medium-bodied, with a long-lasting mousse and intense bubbles. On the nose and palate generous pear, hazelnut and orange rind notes backed up by hints of sourdough bread and minerals. NIS 229. Score 90.

Jean Milan, Brut Rose Millenaire, n.v.: Tastes like a fine Burgundy that just happens to have bubbles. On the nose and palate spicy cherry, berry and wild flower notes, all coming together in ways that are bound to make you smile. A somewhat short mousse here but fine bubbles linger nicely. One you'll either love or hate but certainly worth the try. NIS 249. Score 91.
Jean Milan, Brut Blanc de Blancs Champagne, Symphorine, 2002: Oh what a lovely wine! Medium-bodied, with a long, long mousse, opening with citrus peel and spring flowers and then going on to show notes of mango, passion fruit and green apples, all with a light and tantalizing hint of sour dough bread. Lovely now but not for long-term cellaring. Drink now-2009. NIS 309. Score 91.

Jean Milan, Sec, Blanc de Blancs Champagne, Cuvee Tendresse, n.v.: If this one didn't have bubbles it would make you think more of a Tokaji dessert wine than a Champagne. Moderate sweetness, that balanced nicely by acidity and showing citrus and honeyed summer fruits. Best as a dessert wine. NIS 235. Score 87.

Larmandier-Bernier, Brut Champagne, Tradition, n.v.: Medium-bodied, with generous yeasty, toasted white bread and fruits in good balance and showing a moderately long mousse and concentrated well-focused bubbles. As the wine opens on the palate look citrus and spring flowers. NIS 249. Score 89.

Pierre Gimonnet & Fuils, Brut, Blanc de Blanc Champagne, Fleuron, 2002: Deep golden straw in color, medium-bodied, with a fine mousse and intense bubbles that go on and on. On the nose and palate opens with toast, toffee and ginger, those yielding to citrus, minerals and toasted almonds. Long and generous. Drink now-2014.NIS 295. Score 92.

Pierre Grimonnet & Fils, Extra Brut, Blanc de Blancs, Special Club, 1999: Crisp, almost puckering dryness here but that set off in a medium-bodied wine that opens to reveal citrus peel and flowers, notes of kiwis and a generous nuttiness that develops on the palate. Rich and long. Drink now-2011. Score 92.

Vilmart & Cie, Brut Champagne, Grand Cellier, n.v.: Light- to medium-bodied, with a fine mousse and intense bubbles and what some may consider a somewhat unusual tutti-frutti combination of aromas and flavors, those including bananas, strawberries and raspberries. On the moderately-long finish hints of ginger and anise. A fine wine but whether one enjoys it will be much a matter of personal taste. NIS 309. Score 90.

Vilmart & Cie, Brut Champagne, Coeur de Cuvee, 1999: Full-bodied, with a super-long lasting mousse and fine bubbles that go on and on. Opens with a spicy and red-fruit nose, goes on to reveal cassis, wild berries, vanilla and hints of mocha. Long, lively and complex. Drink now-2015, perhaps longe. NIS 549. Score 93.