Saumur-Champigny 1982 – René-Noël Legrand – 100% Cabernet franc
These bottles were available at the estate for a knock-down price because Legrand considered that they were breaking up (I can’t remember the word he used but that was the gist of it). He has always been apologetic about his 82 saying that his yields have since come down and that his work in both the vineyard and cellar has improved. Nevertheless, about five years ago the wine was still really beautiful, so I reckoned that the gamble was worthwhile. Here is what one bottle was like last night (they are probably quite variable).
C: Quite light with amber at the rim and somewhat lacking in transparency (perhaps stirred up by transport from Varrains in May and/or by standing up for only 1 hour before serving) but I don’t think that this affected the taste.
N: Lovely with aromas of fine tea, pencil lead and a touch of gently sweet red fruit.
P: Has definitely dried out somewhat losing some body and “gras” but still retains enough to support the lovely aromas and for elegance on entry and mid-palate; however the finish now reveals a slightly cloying touch, almost incipient rottenness; so a very interesting and attractive, if flawed, drink; difficult to rate but let’s say 15.5/20 (was 17.5/20).
I have been buying Legrand’s wines at the estate for well over 10 years. They are often rustic and difficult to taste when young but they usually show exceptionally deep colour and robustness with bags of structure and terroir character and age beautifully; superb 89 Vieilles Vignes. Legrand’s integrity is shown by his willingness to unload a wine like this, which he considers seriously flawed; it is, IMHO, every bit as good as several mature bottles from, for example, Lamé-Delisle-Boucard, for which I paid solid prices.
He has one importer in the USA (California) and none, I think, in the UK.