Last night we had a Champagne and White Burgundy tasting at China Blue in Tribeca. I took the train, the subway, and then crossed the tunnel traffic at Canal, suddenly I felt I was in “Omega Man” with Charlton Heston. 3 deserted blocks to the restaurant, where most of the group was waiting. A nice night with fine Shanghaiese food.
NV (2009, disgorged 2012) Vouette et Sorbée “Blanc d’Argile” Champagne
I thought first taste was odd- an intense gingery note- but whatever irked me went away,
Dry, crisp, refreshing. B+
First couple courses were cold jellyfish with cucumber and crispy eel.
2002 Bollinger “Grande Annee” Champagne
Not as heavy as some Bollys, but didn’t excite me as much as some others at the table. Baked apple, lemon sherbert, almonds. B/B-
2002 Taittinger Comtes de Champagne
Very young, but oh so promising. Crisp, full, elegant, long. A- with potential for A
Some soup dumplings, vegetable dumplings, and a lovely herb/tofu soup
1999 Pol Roger “WInston Churchill” Champagne
Full, smoke and bread dough, lovely wine, not quite as powerful as the ‘96 but a lovely bottle of Winston Churchill. A-
Pork belly with buns, “West Lake” fish, and great eel with chives!
1995 Henriot “Enchanteleurs” Champagne
Toasty, rich, mushrooms and citrus, long, I enjoyed but not quite as much as a bottle last month. B+/A-
Mushrooms with tofu, bok choy, spinach. steamed bass
2006 Lilbert-Fils Blanc de Blancs Brut Grand Cru Cramant Champagne
The cork flew away and never came back. I didn’t love this but think it suffered from positioning after the more mature wines. I wrote B-, but think if it was served at beginning I would have liked more.
2004 Simon Bize Corton Charlemagne
Citrus and pear, lots of herbal notes, good length. B+/A-
2005 Jadot Corton Charlemagne
Full bodied, quite woody compared to the Bize, nice wine in need of time. B for drinking now.
2010 Drouhin Clos des Mouches Beaune 1er (blanc)
Young and tight at first, but fun to revisit after a bit. Powerful, crisp acids, clean white fruits and citrus, light oak, long. B+, A potential
We got re-orders of several dishes (pork, eel, etc) , plus a couple new ones (Lions head meatballs)
2006 H. Boillot Criots-Batard-Montrachet
Surprisingly bright, mineral, good length. B+/A-
2005 Leflaive “Clavoillon” Puligny-Montrachet 1er
Pears, hazelnut, but I think this is in a bit of a grumpy stage. B/B- this night, one to watch
2006 Pernot Batard-Montrachet
Good showing, no hint of PremOx in this bottle, sweet pears, stones, good length. B+/A-
2005 Sauzet “La Garenne” Puligny Montrachet 1er
Minty, some light oak,\white fruits, maybe the most ready of the ‘05s we have this night. B+
Great food, great company. We got lucky with no corked or oxidized bottles, and while I had favorites there was nothing I wouldn’t drink. . Fun night in a truly quiet corner of Manhattan.
Grade disclaimer: I'm a very easy grader, basically A is an excellent wine, B a good wine, C drinkable. Anything below C means I wouldn't drink at a party where it was only choice.Furthermore, I offer no promises of objectivity, accuracy, and certainly not of consistency.