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TN: An Alsatian Luncheon Tasting

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Bill Spohn

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TN: An Alsatian Luncheon Tasting

by Bill Spohn » Fri Apr 05, 2024 3:57 pm

Notes from a blind tasting Lunch – Alsace

We decided to aim at identifying varietal and age and not to worry about trying to come up with producers for this one.

2001 Trimbach Riesling Cuvée Frédéric Emile – medium amber colour, with a nose of obvious Riesling with notable apricot hints. Good length.

2002 Trimbach Riesling Cuvée Frédéric Emile – mid amber, slightly sweet spicy nose, good length and balance

2011 Trimbach Riesling Cuvée Frédéric Emile – clean fruit nose with some ripe tropical fruit and citrus elements and a bit of coconut with time. Very dry clean finish.

2003 Zind-Humbrecht Pinot Gris Rotenberg – lighter colour and a very decent nose that included dried orange and nutmeg, with long clean finish.

2005 Zind-Humbrecht Riesling Clos Häuserer – clearly Riesling on palate, rich and slightly ripe, slightly off dry and good length. Mid amber colour.

2011 Dom. Weinbach Riesling Schlossberg Grand Cru – clearly Riesling but with a less forward nose, crisp and very Germanic.

2018 Domaine Weinbach Riesling Cuvée Théo – light in colour (especially after the brigade of ambers), nice crisp nose , well balanced

1999 Gustave Lorentz Pinot Blanc Reserve – light colour, crisp clean wine – good showing for pinot blanc.

2007 Albert Mann Gewurztraminer Furstentum Vieilles Vignes – light colour, sweet tropical fruit (lychee?) nose with hints of nutmeg, good acid and length. I had figured that this would have hints of RS and saved it to go with the cheese and it did.

2016 Marcel Deiss Huebuhl – this is a blend of Pinot Gris and Pinot Blanc, sweet but crisp and great with cheese.

2000 Hugel Gewurztraminer ‘Hugel’ – tad sweet and slightly heavy seeming but worked well with cheese.

I did a mushroom and onion tart and another participant did an excellent Alsatian choucroute garni that included a smoked pork chop, foie gras sausage, duck bacon, sauerkraut and little potatoes.

april 2024 lunchsm.jpg
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Re: TN: An Alsatian Luncheon Tasting

by David M. Bueker » Fri Apr 05, 2024 4:37 pm

Yum.

2002 CFE is one of my very favorite bottles of wine.
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Re: TN: An Alsatian Luncheon Tasting

by Jenise » Fri Apr 05, 2024 7:15 pm

David M. Bueker wrote:Yum.

2002 CFE is one of my very favorite bottles of wine.


It was my favorite of the tasting. I'll post notes soon.
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Re: TN: An Alsatian Luncheon Tasting

by John S » Fri Apr 05, 2024 7:39 pm

A nice tasting of Alsace wines, although most people (including me) seemed to focus on the rieslings. Not that that is a bad thing!

I brought my last two Alsacian bottles in my cellar - that was a surprise to me. The 2001 Trimback Frederick Emile was very bronze in color, and although it didn't taste oxidized, it was a little off I think. The 2002 Trimbach Frederick Emile was in a much better places, very, very dry with clear minerality and mainly citrus fruits with crispy green apple too. Jenise asked to go next, and the 2011 Trimbach Frederick Emile showed up - a nice little vertical of one of the top wines in Alsace. I thought this was showing the best on the day. This was slightly off dry, with more of a tropical fruit style - pineapple, peach, coconut. Much rounder than the older bottles. Bill's excellent onion tart was served in this flight I think, and it paired very well with the wines.

The one pinot gris came next. The 2003 Zind-Humbrecht Pinot Gris Rotenberg had lovely tropical notes, slightly off dry, with a rich medium bodied palate and a slight soapy note. Showed the producer and vintage, but very nice. Another from this producer was the 2005 Zind-Humbrecht Riesling Clos Häuserer. Back to riesling, another rich style, with apricots and an off dry finish.

Jenise's amazing choucroute was an outstanding version of the Alsacian classic dish. I've had more than a few choucroute's in Alsace, and this version was definitely an 'elevated' version that was amazing. Thanks Jenise!

The 2011 Dom. Weinbach Riesling Schlossberg Grand Cru was a lovely riesling, mid range between the Zind Humbrecht and the Trimback. Elegance and class as always with this producer. The 2018 Domaine Weinbach Riesling Cuvée Théo was even more classy, a dry version with citrus and stonefruit. Ethereal in texture and oozed class. One of my favourite wines today.

The 1999 Gustave Lorentz Pinot Blanc Reserve was the only pinot blanc. Crisp and clean, youthful, light to medium bodied with citrus notes.

The cheese course came out with the following wines. The 2007 Albert Mann Gewurztraminer Furstentum Vieilles Vignes was very nice. It was great to finally see a gewurztraminer, and it was a classic example, just off dry with tropical fruits and nice acidity. The
2016 Marcel Deiss Huebuhl was a blend of Pinot Gris, Pinot Blanc and Riesling I think? I thought this showed well. Off dry but crisp and great with cheese. I really liked the 2000 Hugel Gewurztraminer ‘Hugel’, it again showed very well, with a richness but also enough acidity to keep it fresh. Another favourite.

A different tasting theme for us: no reds to be seen! It was great to see so many different examples of mainly riesling. I don't buy Alsace wines anymore, and we don't have a good selection at all here, but I remain a big fan of the wines and producers in this beautiful area, one of my favourite wine regions to visit, although I haven't been there in many years.
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Re: TN: An Alsatian Luncheon Tasting

by David M. Bueker » Fri Apr 05, 2024 7:47 pm

Would not shock me of the 2001 CFE was a touch advanced. That was the tail end of their semi-premox era. Not so bad as White Burgundy, but from 1996-2001 there were way too many off bottles. The Trimbachs vehemently dispute this, but there are too many data points.
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Re: TN: An Alsatian Luncheon Tasting

by Rahsaan » Fri Apr 05, 2024 8:33 pm

John S wrote:A different tasting theme for us: no reds to be seen!


I hear the Alsatian red wines have been getting better in recent years. But I haven't tasted to confirm.

Not that you needed other wines. Looks like a great lineup.
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Re: TN: An Alsatian Luncheon Tasting

by Jenise » Sat Apr 06, 2024 12:07 pm

Re the three Freddies, I was squirming to maintain my cool and sound super nonchalant when I asked, "Can I pass a wine now?" like it didn't really matter to get my 2011 out there after John's 2002 where the voice in my head was going "ME NEXT ME NEXT GET OUTTA MY WAY ME NEXT!" I'm sure you've all had that experience. I picked up coconut and pineapple in the '11 which makes it sound like a pina colada though in fact it wasn't. John's 02 was my WOTN, and David's comments about pre-mox make perfect sense in hindsight. There was a much greater difference between '01 the '02 than just one more year of bottle age.

I was not crazy about the ZH '03, for my tastes it lacked acidity. Bill's '05 ZH was excellent but seemed more PG to me than Riesling. I loved both of the Weinbach's and will go get any remaining bottles of the Theo the retailer I bought that from had. And I absolutely adored the Marcel Deiss blend with Pinot Meunier. Very complex and intriguing.

But now, about the Gustave Lorentz: this is a wine from WLDG history! A long time ago a woman named Judy showed up here with some really crazy posts. It was hard to tell whether the problem was typing or thinking or both, but she clearly knew her way around top California and Bordeaux wines. I ended up meeting her at a Los Angeles offline and we hit it off. I soon learned she suffered from clinical depression and aspergers syndrome. We became good friends, and then I moved up here.

One day my phone rang and the voice on the other end identified himself as John Trombley. Yeah, the pharmacist from DT Detroit and WIWP (Wacky Internet Wine Personality) with his infamous lust for Germanic wines. Last I knew from his posts his wife had divorced him and none of his five kids would speak to him. So he proceeds to tell me that he and Judy had somehow become great friends and spent a lot of phone time together. He was planning to visit and had sent a box of four German wines ahead to settle in advance of his arrival, convinced he could teach her to love reisling (she liked Sauvignon Blanc but hardly any other whites, and especially not reisling). He explained to me that they had oodles in common, specifically "her mother never loved her and mine didn't either." An erstwhile suitor, it seemed, but all had gone wrong: she suddenly stopped taking his calls. "Can't help you John, she's nuts. You're not the first man she's done this to". In fact there had been a previous one when we were both still in L.A., also a WLDGer, also batshit crazy, who actually flew out from eastern Canada with high hopes and then showed up on my doorstep uninvited when she wouldn't take his calls.

Anyway, John then proceeds to with the next jaw-dropper, that even if she wasn't interested in dating him he still had to talk to her because (!!!) he had another girlfriend he was probably going to marry and Judy had promised to give him the air miles with which to purchase the tickets for the German honeymoon. Eeek.

Eventually Judy moved up here too and brought her wine collection with her. Shortly after arrival, she gave me the untouched box of wines John had sent her. By then John had married Barbara who died at a MoCool and shortly after he too passed away. Judy also passed away which is why it's safe for me to tell this story. I put the bottles in my super-cold garage fridge and over the years trotted them off to tastings. This Gustave Lorentz was the last one. Its youthful character owes everything to the fact that it has been refrigerated all this time. It was fitting to take one to this lunch and tell the story because both John S and Bill remember John. We had a toast to him and all the ways the internet wine thing has brought us all together.
My wine shopping and I have never had a problem. Just a perpetual race between the bankruptcy court and Hell.--Rogov
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Re: TN: An Alsatian Luncheon Tasting

by Bill Spohn » Sat Apr 06, 2024 12:38 pm

Funny - I was looking at pouring a couple of Lorentz wines - 08 Riesling Altenberg de Bergheim Vieilles Vignes and a 2010 Gewurztraminer Altenberg de Bergheim Vieilles Vignes. May have to work them into another tasting or dinner or something soon.
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Re: TN: An Alsatian Luncheon Tasting

by Rahsaan » Sat Apr 06, 2024 1:23 pm

Jenise wrote:...even if she wasn't interested in dating him he still had to talk to her because (!!!) he had another girlfriend he was probably going to marry and Judy had promised to give him the air miles with which to purchase the tickets for the German honeymoon.


!!! The lives people live...
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Re: TN: An Alsatian Luncheon Tasting

by David M. Bueker » Sat Apr 06, 2024 3:44 pm

Oh man, John Trombley. The conversations he and I had...he bought a bunch of stuff from that German wine specialist outside of Oakland, DeeVine, and most of is was badly heat damaged. He actually shipped me bunch of the bottles to be sure it wasn't just him. Nope - shot. Waste of a very large amount of money for a guy who was sometimes scraping by despite his career. Then he would just disappear - usually going on some retreat with the Jesuits. Never did get the opportunity to meet him in person. MoCool had this scheduling issue for me, always being right around my anniversary, and Laura was decidedly not interested in traveling to be around a bunch of wine geeks she had never set eyes on before.
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Re: TN: An Alsatian Luncheon Tasting

by Rahsaan » Sat Apr 06, 2024 4:01 pm

David M. Bueker wrote:..he bought a bunch of stuff from that German wine specialist outside of Oakland, DeeVine, and most of is was badly heat damaged.


Still around: https://www.dvw.com/

With some Balz Collection rarities/oddities for sale, dating back to a 1925 TBA.
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Re: TN: An Alsatian Luncheon Tasting

by Jenise » Sat Apr 06, 2024 5:35 pm

I met the DeeVine guy in Los Angeles. Put on a great tasting at an Asian restaurant and it was where I fell in love with Austrian wines in general and Nigl gruners in particular.

Poor John. Just desperately wanted to be wanted. Very generous guy, from what I understand from people who shared wines with him--just a little awkward socially.
My wine shopping and I have never had a problem. Just a perpetual race between the bankruptcy court and Hell.--Rogov
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Bill Spohn

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Re: TN: An Alsatian Luncheon Tasting

by Bill Spohn » Sat Apr 06, 2024 9:01 pm

FWIW, I left a couple of the wines left over in covered decanters until two days later and they stood up really well. I'd figured that they would oxidize!
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Re: TN: An Alsatian Luncheon Tasting

by Patchen Markell » Sat Apr 06, 2024 9:23 pm

I met John at a memorable offline in Chicago, although what I remember most about that night was the chef threatening Hoke with a knife while he was in the bathroom (long story). John was a lovely but definitely quirky guy. He seemed passionately geeky, which I identify with (I say this as someone who's spent the weekend unpacking books into my new basement library annex). I didn't know all this about his social life. I also didn't know DeeVine was sketchy. I have exactly one bottle from them in my cellar, I think -- a 375 of a Dönnhoff Oberhäuser Brücke Eiswein from 1998, which I bought at their "shop" at Pier 9 in SF way back in the day.
cheers, Patchen
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Re: TN: An Alsatian Luncheon Tasting

by Rahsaan » Sun Apr 07, 2024 8:45 am

Patchen Markell wrote:...which I bought at their "shop" at Pier 9 in SF way back in the day.


My grad school years were greatly enriched by spending Saturday afternoons on that Pier tasting/drinking German riesling and whatever else Dade wanted to open. So many wines, and at first they were free, if I remember correctly. Extra fuel and excitement for the BART trek back to Berkeley, with bottles in tow.

I think I started going when the 2001s were being released, having no historical context for why they were so amazing, but loving them all the same.
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Re: TN: An Alsatian Luncheon Tasting

by Patchen Markell » Sun Apr 07, 2024 8:29 pm

It would have been great to be able to taste there! I only ever stopped in a couple of times during visits back to see my father, who lived on the Fisherman’s Wharf side of North Beach, so I’d BART in from the East Bay and walk around the Embarcadero to Bay. I was just starting to learn about Riesling. Most of my disposable income at the time was going to bookstores…
cheers, Patchen

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