WTN: Sanctum "Stix & Bugs" Piquette

[Robin Garr]

Piquette might be the next big small thing among millennial sommeliers after orange wine and pet-nat, but this piquette from Slovenia is a pretty good summer sipper, especially if you let it warm up enough to show its earthy-forest-floor notes. Technically not a wine but a wine beverage, it's made with pomace, the dripping mass of grape skins, seeds, and stems that remain after the grapes are pressed. The pomace is mixed with water, then fermented from the natural sugars that remain in the crushed fruit. Historically it was made for vineyard workers as a quaff just alcoholic enough to lift their spirits without putting them down for naps when they need to be picking.

Sanctum NV "Stix & Bugs" Stajerska Slovenia Piquette ($17.99)

A blend of Blaufrankisch, Zweigelt, and Pinot Noir grapes, Sanctum "Stix & Bugs" Piquette is described as a red frizzante (lightly sparkling) wine and sealed with a beer-bottle style crown cap. Hazy rosy-orange in color with distinct sediment collected at the bottom of the bottle, it pours up with a thick pinkish foam that falls back fast. Right out of the refrigerator it seems simple and fresh, strawberry scents with a touch of damp clay. As it warms in the glass it becomes much more complex, adding notes of yeast, a faint hint of dairy, and a leafy, vegetal whiff of the forest floor. Dry and prickly with gentle carbonation, it's dry and light with just 8% alcohol. A good pick for spring or summer sipping. U.S. importer: Vinum USA Inc., Basking Ridge, N.J. (April 19, 2024)

FOOD MATCH: Treat it as a sparkling wine, versatile with a range of foods or enjoyed on its own. I enjoyed it with a veggie pizza slice, spicy brothy beans, and even a simple salad.

WHEN TO DRINK: Piquette isn't made for aging. The in-bottle fermentation and low-acid construction don't bode well for long storage. Pop the cap and drink up.

VALUE:
Wine-Searcher.com's $25 average U.S. retail appears to be an outlier, with actual retail prices ranging from $11.39 to $22. I'd buy it again in the teens, but perhaps not for $25.

WEB LINK:
Sanctum Wines has an extensive website in English. Here's a link to a page outlining their wine making philosophy, their story, and their wines. For specifics on this piquette, check this producer fact sheet.

FIND THIS WINE ONLINE:
Check prices and find vendors for Sanctum "Stix & Bugs" Piquette on Wine-Searcher.com.

Read more about piquette and browse a variety of offerings at this Wine-Searcher link.

Follow this Wine-Searcher link to learn about Stajerska Slovenia and its wines.

Browse Sanctum Wine's portfolio and vendor sources on Wine-Searcher.com.

I am reading a book (possibly recommended here or another wine/food board) called the Drunken Botanist. And one of the things it certainly makes me wonder about is if there is any edible substance that could be used to make alcoholic beverages but hasn't been. Because humans seem to have fermented everything, even if it requires additional heat or bacteria to break down the starch into something yeast can consumre. Never heard of piquette but that certainly tracks as an alternative to using the pomace for grappa. One would think it would be like press wine on steroids, though. Super tannic. I agree that $25 is high to try this beverage but, like you, I'd do it once for the experience. Thanks for teaching me something!

[David M. Bueker]

Interesting. But I agree that $25 would be more than I would be willing to spend, especially since I can get a pretty fine Riesling in that price and 8% ABV range.

[Robin Garr]

I looked at Wine Searcher Pro for full data, and the average price is really off thanks to one severe outlier merchant that posted a probably mistaken price. This piquette typically sells in the middle teens.