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RCP /Foodletter: Quick paella

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RCP /Foodletter: Quick paella

by Robin Garr » Thu Sep 06, 2007 8:03 am

Quick paella

We had so much fun taking a culinary trip to Spain with last week's recipe for an authentic Andalusian gazpacho, let's continue our virtual voyage to Iberia for another session, with a quick look at the signature Spanish dish, paella.

Originally created in Valencia and first made with meat or poultry, paella was too good to keep at home and quickly spread over much of Spain, where seafood and fish became prized optional ingredients, either in addition to or instead of the meat.

Like so many kinds of lovable, hearty peasant fare, it was usually made in quantity, often cooked over an open wood fire in a large, round pan - la paella - that shares its name with the dish. (We'll leave the question of which came first, the paella or the pan, to philosophers who debate such things as the chicken and the egg.)

Pronounce it "Pah-AY-yah" and you'll come close enough to get served in a Spanish eatery. You can make it at home - it's not very difficult and doesn't have to be terribly time-consuming - and if you don't have a paella pan, a wok or any heavy skillet will work just fine.

This quick version that I threw together the other night may fail on authenticity points. Call it an invention made in the spirit of a true paella with speed and relative simplicity in mind - it should take well under an hour from start to finish and doesn't require any ingredients more exotic than paprika and saffron. But I don't think a hungry Spaniard would complain too much if someone served him a dish of it.

INGREDIENTS: (Serves two)

Red onion, enough to make about 1 cup (240g) chopped
Red bell pepper, enough to make about 1/2 cup chopped
1-2 cloves garlic
4 ounces (120g) ham
2 tablespoons (30ml) olive oil
1/4 teaspoon (1g) saffron threads
1 teaspoon (5g) hot paprika or mild paprika and a dash of cayenne
2/3 cup (160ml) Arborio or other medium-grain rice
2 cups (a scant 1/2 liter) chicken stock
12 ounces (360g) large shrimp
12 small pimiento-stuffed olives

PROCEDURE:

1. Peel the onion and chop it into small dice. Remove the seeds and ribs from the red bell pepper and chop it into similar dice. Peel the garlic and mince it fine, and dice the ham.

2. Put the olive oil over medium-high heat in a paella pan, wok or heavy skillet and cook until it sizzles. Saute the onions, garlic and bell pepper until they are soft and translucent; add the diced ham and continue cooking for a few more minutes until the vegetables start to brown. Stir in the saffron and paprika.

3. Add the dry rice to the browning vegetables and continue cooking until it's well mixed in and parches slightly. Pour in about 1 1/2 cups of the chicken stock, bring to a boil, then reduce heat to medium-low, cover the pan tightly, and allow to simmer for about 15 minutes, stirring occasionally.

4. While the rice is cooking, shell the shrimp and devein them if you wish. Cut the olives in half.

5. When the rice is cooked but still al dente, remove the cover and put the shelled shrimp on top of the rice. Drizzle them with the remaining chicken stock, cover the pan again, and cook for another 5 minutes or so, just until the shrimp turn pink and cook through. Stir one last time, garnish with the halved olives and serve.

<B>MATCHING WINE:</B> A dry white is best, and a little fizz wouldn't be amiss. It was excellent with a very young Gazela Vinho Verde from Portugal, but I wouldn't turn down a dry Cava (Spanish sparkling wine), an Albariño from Galicia in Spain, or even an Argentine Torrontes.

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Jay Baldwin

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Re: RCP /Foodletter: Quick paella

by Jay Baldwin » Thu Sep 06, 2007 4:48 pm

Here's how far back I go. Jim Leff (not Jeff) would take you to task on this article. How dare you call this paella or anything that rhymes with paella!

Jim's rants on paella still haunt me to this day. :shock:
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Re: RCP /Foodletter: Quick paella

by Robin Garr » Thu Sep 06, 2007 5:43 pm

Jay Baldwin wrote:rants on paella


You know, there is a fine but fuzzy line between a devotion to authenticity in food and mere food snobbery ...
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Re: RCP /Foodletter: Quick paella

by Jay Baldwin » Fri Sep 07, 2007 12:04 pm

Agreed.

Some people might not bother trying to make it at all if this sentiment was taken too seriously. I myself have enjoyed my own attempts quite a bit. Even bought one of those cheap-but-more-or-less-authentic paella pans at Cost Plus World Market. It's almost impossible NOT to scorch the rice a little bit. Which is one of the desirable outcomes as I understand it.
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Re: RCP /Foodletter: Quick paella

by Bob Ross » Sat Sep 08, 2007 12:26 pm

Robin, a technique question:

I see that you simmer the mixture on the stove top. I've made similar paellas cooking the dish in a 450F oven for 15 minutes or so.

Have you tried that technique? If so, which version do you prefer?

Thanks, Bob
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Re: RCP /Foodletter: Quick paella

by Robin Garr » Sat Sep 08, 2007 12:41 pm

Bob Ross wrote:I see that you simmer the mixture on the stove top. I've made similar paellas cooking the dish in a 450F oven for 15 minutes or so.

Have you tried that technique? If so, which version do you prefer?


Bob, interesting question. Frankly, I had never thought of baking a paella or similar dish in the oven. To me, paella, arroz con pollo, pilaf, risotto and that whole broad family of dishes are stovetop dishes. In the case of paella, which purportedly was originally cooked in a pan over open wood fires, stovetop cooking intuitively seems more akin to that, with direct heat cooking the dish from below.

But based on experiments with pot roasts and other braised dishes that can be done on the stovetop or in the oven, I can't say that I notice a large amount of difference in the finished product, so I'm sure either approach would work.
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Re: RCP /Foodletter: Quick paella

by Howie Hart » Sat Sep 08, 2007 12:55 pm

An old friend of mine (who passed away a few years ago) was of Cuban descent but grew up in NYC. He told me about an uncle of his who actually hired a potter to throw paella pots so that he could fit a certain number (4? 6? 9?) in his his oven. He always used fresh shellfish and chicken. I've never tried it.
Chico - Hey! This Bottle is empty!
Groucho - That's because it's dry Champagne.
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Re: RCP /Foodletter: Quick paella

by Bob Ross » Sat Sep 08, 2007 1:29 pm

Thanks, Robin.

I noticed that Bittman used the oven approach in his tomato paella appearing in the Times on Wednesday.

Looks like either technique would work. I'll stick with the oven for now -- it's more convenient when using my Viking Grill.

I note, though, that Bittman suggests heating the dish before serving for a few minutes in order to develop a bottom crust.

4. Remove pan from oven and sprinkle with parsley. If you like, put pan over high heat for a few minutes to develop a bit of a bottom crust before serving.

That would be an advantage of the stove top approach if a bottom crust using that technique.

Regards, Bob
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Re: RCP /Foodletter: Quick paella

by Bob Henrick » Sat Sep 08, 2007 8:05 pm

VIKING GRILL? VIKING GRILL? Come on Bob, keep the gas (I did) but go ahead and order yourself a Kamado, and discover grilling! check it out at http://www.Kamado.com
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Re: RCP /Foodletter: Quick paella

by Bob Ross » Sat Sep 08, 2007 9:21 pm

Sounds very nice, Bob, but I use the Viking very much like a stove -- and it can get a pizza stone to 850 to 900 F -- so I probably won't add another piece of gear to our deck.

It seats 10 to 12 very comfortably with the bird feeders, planters, and the Viking -- but your pretty Kamado might crowd things a little too much.

I'll just envy your success, Bob -- it sounds like a very good piece of equipment.

Regards, Bob

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