I've crossed over to the dark side...

The dark side of molecular gastronomy.

I mocked it. I turned my nose up at it. Then I saw someone "doing it."

I admit it looked like fun.

Then tonight I went to a dinner that played a little with the concept--there was a caviar of orange and beet juice and maybe...gelatin? Dropped out of a syringe...little droplets... I don't know what he dropped them into..

Then there was some chocolate that had been dropped into liquid nitrogen...


It was...it was...The chef was playing with his food and he was having FUN!

It all still tasted great AND it had these fun textures and ...well, it all made me smile.

I was at this dinner with a local newspaper food columnist. She basically dissed the chef to his face, sniffed about it all and turned to our host and said: I need to leave before I say something I regret.

Yes, she was appalled that the chef was having fun AND that I was laughing along, enjoying some unusual things along the way. It was food with a sense of humor.

Finally, I had to wonder: Isn't this all about having fun? Enjoying food and wine? We were at a fabulous dinner where we got to taste wines ranging up to $1000 a bottle (or so I was told. I haven't looked it up yet: a 2003 Mouton Rothschild Bordeaux--I don't exactly think I will find it on the shelves of my local Publix)..How could this woman be so distressed by the chef's obvioius enjoyment?

So that's it. I promise I will try not to tolerate gratuitous foams. But in the meantime: play with your food.

Barb, I used to have mixed feelings about the molecular biz. Then I started watching Heston Blumenthal's In Search of Perfection tv program (BBC). He's taking classic dishes, like hamburgers or steak or chicken tikka masala, finding out what customers really like about the dish (such as the crispy skin of Peking duck), completely researches the making of dish (like going to China to Peking restaurants), then tries to recreate it in his test kitchens at the Fat Duck (aiming for what the home cook can do, though). And to see the process he goes through is fascinating. It's helped me to understand molecular gastronomy a lot better. It's science - it's a complete look at a dish and the combination of elements, from what I can tell. And it's fascinating. It makes me want to go to his restaurant, that's for sure! cheers, Bonnie

[Robin Garr]

I see nuthin' to be embarrassed about here, Barb, although your food editor friend sounds like a little bit of a twit.

Okay, I made fun of the Oakroom's foams and smears, especially the ones that looked like a terlet bowl. But I also praised their creativity and innovation and loved the dishes where it came out right.

You are Right On Target about them having fun, and you get it. Your pal doesn't.

Well, she wasn't my friend...but she WAS a snob. She did not look like she enjoyed a bit of the evening, her husband was apparently a boor (I did not sit next to him--big round tables of 8 and he was as far away from me as you could be...but the guy next to him finally switched seats with his own wife in between one of the courses...he needed a break)..

I am wondering how on earth she writes about food...but then I never particularly enjoyed her columns, either.

B

I am wondering how on earth she writes about food...but then I never particularly enjoyed her columns, either.

B

Now, now, Barb...

It's ok to have fun with dining and food. My line is drawn when children are taught that dining is entertainment--that mixed message can truly screw up both a kid's eating habits and expectations, but I doubt molecular gastronomy is for kids!

[Jenise]

Barb, I'm with you. I love reading about what chefs like Adria and Blumenthal, and in this country Wylie Dufresne, just to name one, are doing. It's fascinating and it's fun and like it or not, it's the future. God forbid we should be so limited as to not enjoy it.

Oh, re the 03 Mouton? About $300/ea.

Very funny about the wine! I was wondering so much if the numbers were accurate!

Now, maybe the number was accurate if these high rollers (it was at a casino and part of the high rollers' program) to buy it from a wine list...triple inflation? I could see that in a casino...

b

Here's what we ate/drank:
Bites:
Pecan Smoked Fois G & Gala Apple
Roasted Sugar Cane and Rock Shrimp
Chorizo, Bittersweet Chocolate and Saffron Pollen
Veuve Clicquot Gold Label Brut 1988

Langoustines and Antebellum Anson Mill Grits with butter cabbage and Tarragon Crisp
Delagrange Batard Montrachet 2005

Stone Crab and Balik Salmon wrapped in Brick leaf with Mustard Cream and "Caviar" or orange and beet juices
Smith Haut Lafite Blanc 2003

Roasted Lamb and Mustard Greens with Pumpkin mousseline, squash casserole and black walnuts (candies)
Grivot Clos de Vougeot 2004


Roasted Porterhouse Rack with Creamed Spinach and Potato galette
Mouton Rothschild 2003

Trio of Chocolate Bites
Veuve Clicquot Rose Rare Vintage 1985

[Jenise]

...triple inflation? I could see that in a casino...

If you and I owned a casino, we'd be idiots to sell a wine like that for less cuz once a high roller decides to start showing off....

You should have seen the high rollers! They were absolutely smashed. And the casino was loving it bec. you know they were going to walk straight out to the floor and gamble in that condition!

B

[Jenise]

Barb, I'll just bet!

Say, interesting menu. Two questions. First, how do you suppose one smokes a foie gras? And 2, what's a butter cabbage?

Seared then smoked perhaps? it was light.

And I think it was really buttery cabbage...there were a couple of typos on the menu...

b

This month's issue of Discover has an article on molecular gastronomy. One of the items discussed was fried mayonnaise.

The chef was playing with his food and he was having FUN!

Didn't his mother tell him not to play with his food?

I had my first direct experience with some molecular gastronomy at Manresa in Los Gatos back in July. The foam looked odd--like the dish was infested with spittle bugs or something--but the dish and the rest of the meal were both delicious and inventive.

-Paul W.