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RCP: Carbonade

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Howard

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RCP: Carbonade

by Howard » Mon Jan 14, 2008 12:06 am

I got an e-mail newsletter from About.com. I subscribe to the one about Italian cooking and also the one about Indian cooking. This was from the italian cooking one about Carbonade. It was described as being from Piedmont and using dry red wine - traditionally with salt beef but more recently with fresh marinated beef. A little googling turns up french, italian and Flemish Carbonade. Key here is good Belgian beer instead of wine. Oh, and one detail that showed up inconsistently but I thought was cool was to use bread spread with dijon mustard on top for flavor and to thicken. This was amazingly rich and flavorful. I've been into slow cooked stews and soups lately but this is one of the best.

3 lbs chuck roast cut into 1 - 2 inch cubes
2 thick slices bacon
Flour, salt, pepper
2 medium-large yellow onions sliced
Olive oil
2 carrots diced
1 stick celery diced
3-4 garlic cloves smashed peeled and diced
1/2 ounce dried porcini mushrooms
1 750 cc bottle belgian beer - I used Tripel Carmeliet - use any full bodied ale
5 slices day old baguette
dijon mustard
Low salt beef broth
1/2 can tomato paste
bunch of fresh basil - chopped
5 - 6 stalks thyme - strip the leaves - throw away the stalks.
2 bay leaves

Rehydrate the mushrooms in 1/2 cup hot water for 1/2 hour or so.

In a non-stick skillet heat 2-3 tbl olive oil and add the onion slices. Cook on high for a few minutes then decrease the heat and continue cooking stirring as needed until the onions are carmelized. Remove from heat. Meantime, coat the meat with seasoned flour. Heat 2-3 tbl olive oil in a dutch oven. Chop the bacon and fry it until crisp. Remove the bacon add some more olive oil. Brown the floured meat. Be patient and let it brown in batches. Remove from the dutch oven. Pour some of the beer into the dutch oven to deglaze. Add the carrots, celery and garlic. Cook until fragrant. Add chopped herbs and bay leaves. Saute for a few minutes until the kitchen smells amazing. Add the tomato paste - keep cooking for another minute or two. Chop the mushrooms and add them and the rehydrating water (strain it through a cheesecloth). Add almost all of the rest of the beer - keep 6 -8 ounces to taste just to make sure it's still ok :D . Add a cup or so of low salt beef broth. Bring it up to a boil, add the browned beef and turn it down to a simmer. Spread the day old baguettes with dijon mustard. Place the baguettes dijon down in the stew, cover and put into a 325 F oven. Cook for 3 hours. Check every now and then to see if you need to add more broth - the bread, tomato paste and flour will all work to make the coziest, most comfort food like thickened gravy you can imagine. I served it with green beans, blanched then cooked in olive oil, wine and onions and steamed, herbed potatoes. 1999 Pontet Canet to drink. Mmmmm mmmmm.
Howard
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Robin Garr

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Re: RCP: Carbonade

by Robin Garr » Mon Jan 14, 2008 3:58 pm

Howard wrote:A little googling turns up french, italian and Flemish Carbonade.

Really interesting post, Howard! I'm a serious fan of all things Italian, but that's the first I've heard of a Piemontese version of what I've always thought a classic Belgian/Flemish dish. Carbonnades à la flamande - using a version from Craig Claiborne's New York Times Cookbook, I think - used to be one of my go-to recipes, but I haven't made it for years.

I'm sure your Pontet-Canet was a fine match, but when I read that, my immediate thought was, "Why not beer?" ;)
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Frank Deis

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Re: RCP: Carbonade

by Frank Deis » Mon Jan 14, 2008 5:50 pm

We went to Belgium last Summer and of course this stew was on the menu everywhere, but often just under the Flemish name, "Stoverij" which basically means "stew." Vlaamse Stoverij (Stovery) is one of the richest, meatiest stews around. I am also very surprised to see it represented, with its French name, as an Italian dish.

Frank

PS is it traditional for these Italians to use "Belgian Beer"?
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Howard

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Re: RCP: Carbonade

by Howard » Mon Jan 14, 2008 9:06 pm

In the About.Com column by Kyle Phillips he describes this as a typical dish in Val d'Oste (just north of piedmont) and using a wine from that region. It's preparation is not all that different from Beef Burgundy either except I don't caramelize the onions for that and I don't use the bread spread with mustard. I threw the porcinis in because.. well .. I like porcinis. :)

And I drank wine with it because I used my last bottle of belgian ale (with a generous chef's taste :D of course) to make it!
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Paul Winalski

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Re: RCP: Carbonade

by Paul Winalski » Mon Jan 14, 2008 11:51 pm

THIS I gotta try!! Thanks, Howard.

-Paul W.

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