The core:
As a party of four, we ordered for sharing---which is the smart thing to do at Duende, and almost obligatory when you get to paella, a group dish if ever there was---so we could enjoy as much as possible of the menu. It has always seemed to me that good Spanish food is a study in contrasts, with cured meats at one end and unbelievable fresh seafood at the other, both extremes placed in front of you so that the palate is never dulled by the food but constantly stimulated by it. And that's one reason that Spanish dining takes so long---you want to extend the enjoyment for as long as possible.
Don't go to Duende expecting a quick in-and-out dinner. You'll find yourself slowing down, relaxing, enjoying the array of foods and joining in the conversation. You'll also smile frequently.
The gazpacho was utterly fresh and delicious, the pure essence of summer, and serendipitously arrived at the same time as a plate of shrimp crocetas with a simple but profound lemon mayonesa for a lovely contrast of flavors. Canales has a passion for freshness and his saucing style is akin to an old Italian chef in New York who gave me the best cooking advice I ever had: "It's a sauce, not a gravy. Enhance the food; don't drown it."
All the delicious plates passing back and forth, as good as they were, seemed merely in preparation for the crowning glory, a copper-pan of paella that was so impressive that conversation stopped for a long appreciative moment before everyone reached for the serving spoon. The combination of appearance, aroma, taste and texture were, each and all, pinpoint perfect. Add in an accompanying bottle of Marquis de Murrieta Reserva 1994 and it was almost a case of sensory overload. Almost.
The full article: http://violentfermentation.blogspot.com/2014/09/duende-in-oakland-pure-spanish-delight.html