Cogno 2000 Dolcetto d'Alba Vigna del Mandorla ($21.49)
Inky dark ruby color, opaque. Plummy black fruit and an aromatic hint of almonds (or is that just the vineyard name, "vineyard of the almonds," playing with my mind?) Big, mouth-filling black-fruit flavor and hints of "tar" and "smoke" over soft but perceptible tannins. There's nothing "little" or "sweet" about this Dolcetto, but structure and balance make it a memorable wine. US Importer: VIAS Imports Ltd., NYC. (Jul 15, 2002)

FOOD MATCH: The smoky flavor of char-grilled chicken makes an exceptional match.



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