Scene of Rioja vineyards from Guia Internet de los Vinos de España, also available in English.

Remelluri 1994 Rioja ($11.99)
Very dark garnet in color. Delicious black fruit and spicy oak aromas, a bit closed at first, opens up with time in the glass. Full, brooding flavor, black fruit over a sturdy acidic structure and marked tannins. Really an excellent wine, showing great balance and finesse despite its obvious youth. Importer: Cutting Edge Selections Inc., Cincinnati. (Nov. 1, 1997)

CONVERGING STYLES? This wine raises a controversial issue that bears closer examination: It's more like a "world red" in style than a traditional Rioja (and perhaps not coincidentally, it gained a high rating from Robert M. Parker, who likes wines like this). I like it too, but I feel a little pain at the idea that the classic wine styles of Spain -- and Italy, France, Australia, the U.S., etc. -- might be influenced by critics and the marketplace to converge toward uniformity.

Burgans 1996 Rias Baixas Albariño ($9.99)
Clear light brass color. Pleasant aromatics, honey, almonds and wildflowers. Clean and bright flavor, citric and tart; toasted almonds become more evident as it warms in the glass. Flavors consistent in a fairly long finish. Made from Albariño grapes in Galicia, on the Atlantic seacoast on Spain's northwestern shoulder. Importer: Cutting Edge Selections, Inc., Cincinnati.