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Entrefaux Domaine des Entrefaux 1998 Crozes-Hermitage ($12.99)
Very dark ruby, with plummy fruit and fragrant black pepper on the nose and palate; herbal scents of thyme and sage over ripe black fruit, with soft tannins and lemon-squirt acidity. Good balance in a very good food wine. U.S. importer: Kysela Pere et Fils Ltd., Winchester, Va. (Nov. 24, 1999)

FOOD MATCH: Surprisingly good with a meatless match, squash ravioli in a star anise-infused root-vegetable broth.

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All my wine-tasting reports are consumer-oriented. In order to maintain objectivity and avoid conflicts of interest, I purchase all the wines I rate at my own expense in retail stores.

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