Domaine Diochon 2017 Moulin-à-Vent Cuvée Vieilles Vignes ($26.99)
This medium-dark reddish-purple Cru Beaujolais from Domaine Diochon is clear despite being unfined and unfiltered, the sign of good and careful wine making. Distinct but subtle scents of blackberries are backed by a haunting back note of good, earthy red clay. Dark berry and tart black cherry flavors carry over on the palate with brisk acidity and firm but palatable tannins. Distinct minerality is present in the background of this well-balanced, appealing wine, and its rational 13 percent alcohol doesn’t get in the way. Producer: Thomas Patrenotre. U.S. importer: Kermit Lynch Wine Merchant, Berkeley, Calif. (July 24 , 2019)
FOOD MATCH: Grilled meat or poultry would serve this bottle very well, as would flavorful cheese- or bean-based entrees. It went nicely with fat, midsummer green peppers stuffed with ground beef and bulghur.
WHEN TO DRINK: It’s fine now, but the good news about Moulin-à-Vent – especially this Moulin-à-Vent – is that it can age surprisingly well, in contrast with simple Beaujolais. This powerful vintage could certainly age, and evolve into Pinot-like complexity, for a decade, assuming quality, temperature-controlled cellar conditions. Even on a wine rack at room temperature, it ought to be good, if not evolve quite so elegantly, for five years.
My local price is a couple of bucks under Wine-Searcher.com’s $28 average retail and a dollar below importer Kermit Lynch’s suggested retail. That said, it’s a remarkable Cru Beaujolais, and certainly competitive with other quality French reds that claim higher prices.
This link will take you to importer Kermit Lynch’s fact sheet, with a link to purchase the wine.
FIND THIS WINE ONLINE:
Locate vendors and check prices for Domaine Diochon Moulin-à-Vent Cuvée Vieilles Vignes on Wine-Searcher.com.