Bodegas Volver 2014 “Tarima” Alicante Monastrell ($12.99)

Bodegas VolverMade from organic grapes grown on 40-year-old vines, unfiltered and unfined and aged in French oak, this is a dark, almost opaque deep-purple wine. Raspberries and blackberries show first in the aroma, woven with more subtle scents of cinnamon and roses. It’s tart and quite tannic on the palate – a characteristic of Monastrell (Mourvèdre in France), but there’s abundant black fruit, too, adding distinct currant jam as it crosses the palate, lingering with astringent tannins in the long finish. The 14.5% alcohol shows itself in a touch of heat, but the wine is big enough to carry it. U.S. importer: Cutting Edge Selections Inc., Mariemont, Ohio; Jorge Ordoñez Selections (March 11, 2017)

FOOD MATCH: It went well with locally produced grass-fed beef, and it really needs a foil like beef or lamb or high-fat cheese to bring it down to size.

WHEN TO DRINK: It’s drinking well now in spite of the tannins, which will probably outlive the fruit. I’d drink it up in the next two or three years.

For a change, my local price actually beat the $15 average U.S. retail shown on It’s certainly a good value anywhere in the middle teens, and if you’re in a position to shop around online, you may be able to find it for ten bucks or less.

Here’s a fact sheet in English on the winery’s web page.

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