A 21st Century white Burgundy

Burgundy is ancient. Its wine heritage reaches past the medieval dukes and vine-growing monasteries of Bourgogne to fourth-century Roman colonies in Gaul.

Think of Burgundy, and you’ll most likely picture a rich, deep red wine. But of course great Burgundies come in white as well, matching red Burgundy’s Pinot Noir with some of the most pricey and sought-after Chardonnays on Earth.

This does not mean that the joys of excellent Burgundy are out of reach for those of us who won’t fork over a five-figure toll (or even a three- or four-figure toll) for a single bottle of wine. Well, not exactly. …

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