Pertinace, a winery in Piedmont that I had written about after a Zoom tasting during COVID restrictions, was our host for a tasting while we were in Piedmont on our recent visit.
A tasting of Pertinace wines. PHOTO: TERRY DUARTE.
The winery, a cooperative consisting of 20 growers and 110 hectares of vineyards, lies at the southern end of the Barbaresco area near the town of Treiso. The Zoom tasting had only covered the three different Barbaresco wines produced by Pertinace and I learned that the winery produces several other wines from native grapes. Cesare Barbero, the Zoom host for Pertinace, invited us to visit the winery and taste these other wines. We gladly accepted his invitation and visited during harvest time.
Working in the Pertinace vineyards. PHOTO: TERRY DUARTE.
The winery tour, led by Elena Oberto, included a visit to several of the actual vineyards to inspect the grapes just prior to their harvest, a look at the actual winery facilities and then to the tasting itself. Signor Barbero joined us for the tasting to provide additional insights on each wine.
Our first wine was a 2019 Barbera D’Alba DOC, a 14% alcohol, 100% Barbera grape offering. This wine was aged for 9 months in large oak casks. The resultant wine had a ruby color and a pleasant fruit nose. It finished medium and smooth with light acidity. I rated this wine an 89/90 and felt it would be an excellent accompaniment for pizza.
Next we tried a 2019 Langhe Nebbiolo DOC, a 14% alcohol, 100% Nebbiolo grape wine. It was fermented in temperature controlled stainless steel and aged for 12 months in Slovanian oak casks. The Langhe Nebbiolo was a very light ruby in color with a light fruit nose. It finished medium long and very smooth with soft tannins. I liked this light but elegant and well balanced wine and rated it a 90/91. Since the Barbarescos are generally expensive, this is a great substitute for everyday drinking.
Pertinace wines on display. PHOTO: TERRY DUARTE.
The final wine was a 2020 Langhe Arneis DOC, a 13% alcohol, 100% Arneis grape offering. I am a great fan of the Arneis grape but I had only tried the Roero Arneis variety. I learned that the only difference is where the vines are located. The river Tanaro separates the Langhe and Roero valleys and thus the name difference in the Arneis wines. The Langhe Arneis was fermented for 15 days in stainless steel followed by 5 months aging in stainless steel. The wine was a pale yellow in color with a light fruit nose. It finished medium and very smooth. Both my wife and I loved this excellent example of the Arneis grape and I rated the wine a 92. If you see this and like the Arneis grape, buy it. You won’t regret it.
After the tasting, we went to lunch with Signor Barbero and Signora Oberto at the excellent restaurant La Ciau del Tornavento in Treiso. We were amazed to find a restaurant of this high quality in a small town. During the various courses we were treated to taste Pertinace’s 2011 Marcarini Barbaresco DOCG and 2013 Nervo Barbaresco DOCG, both of which were superb. This was a meal we will long remember.
The wines of Pertinace are all of the highest quality and I strongly recommend them.
Thanks to Cesare Barbero and Elena Oberto for their hospitality on our visit.
